Inseam shoe sewing machine



Feb. 12, 1935. A. EPPLER INSEAM SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 24, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet l EPPLER INSEAM SHOE SEWING, MACHINE Feb. 12, 1935.

Filed Oct. 24, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 YII/IIII/IIII/IIIII I'll/IIIII/I/IIIIIIII/II/IIII Patented Feb. 12, 1935 1,990,537 INSEAM SHOE SEWING MACHINE Andrew Eppler, Lynn, Mass, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. .L, a corporation of New Jersey Application October 24, 1933, Serial No. 694,955 12 Claims. (01. 112-47) This invention relates to improvements in in- The principal object of the present invention is to provide a machine in which the work feeding instruments will so operate as to retain the advantages of easy sewing on pointed toed shoes and, at the same time, furnish more eifective support against the penetrating stroke of the needle for thin materials likely to be employed in such shoes, and particularly in shoes having canvas covered insoles.

With this object in view, a feature of the present invention contemplates the provision in an inseam shoe sewing machine of a feed point and a channel guide operating to feed the shoe with a multiple step movement and in such a way that the feed point will support the shoe between the needle and the last formed stitch while the needle engages the work. In order to support the work at the other side of the needle in the present embodiment of the invention, the channel guide is moved close to the point where the needle emerges and is back fed away from the needle out of the path of the looper in laying the thread in the needle barb. To prevent the feed point from impinging on the threads of a stitch being set, the feeding movements of the feed point, in the machine illustrated, are made unequal, the back-feeding movement corresponding-in length to the longer feeding movement, taking place while the needle is withdrawing with the threads.

/ These and other features of the invention, certain of which are not limited to a construction in which a plurality of feeding movements are imparted to the feed point during each stitch forming cycle, will be readily understood from an inspection of the accompanying drawings and the following detailed description illustrated therein.

In the drawings, Fig. l is a view in front elevation showing so much of an inseam sewing ma! chine asis necessary to illustrate the preferred form of the invention; Fig.2 is a side elevation on a somewhat reduced scale of the machine illustrated in' Fig. 1; and Figs. 3 to 9, inclusive, are

diagrammatic views indicating the mode of operation of the stitch forming and work supporting devices of the machine. The machine illustrated in the drawings'is a welt and turn shoe sewingmachine having the same general construction as the machine shown and described in inventors Patent No. 1,108,560 dated August 25, 1914. The machine is provided with a curved hook needle 2, a looper 4, a thread arm 6, a feed point 8, achannel guide 10, a back gage 12, and a back rest 14, all of which are similar in construction to the'corresponding parts in the machine of Patent No. 1,108,560, with the exception of the feed point which, in the present machine is formed with awork guiding surface similar to that at the end of the channel guide and with a sticker point projecting from the end to'prevent 'slipping'when in engagement with the work. i

In the present machine the feed point and the channel guide are so mounted that they are independently movable in'the line of feed and the' feed point is operated to give two feeding move: ments to the work between successive work piercing strokes of the needle. One of the feeding movements of the feed point is greaterthan another during each cycle of the machine, a backfeeding movement corresponding inlength to the greater feeding movementtaking place 'after' the needle has engaged the-work to insurethat' the feed point will not impinge upon thethread being drawn-through the work by the needle. The greatest distance between the needle and the feed point while in engagement with the work is, therefore, less than the length of a stitch, thus permitting easier turning of the shoe when sewing about 40 the toe portion.

In the construction shown, the feed pointis mounted on a carrier segment 16 which is oscillated by a cam operated lever 18 towards and from engagement with the insole channel. The

segment 16 is pivotally mounted upon a feed slide 20 and is reciprocated in the line of feed by a cam roll 22 on the feed slide, engaging a cam groove formed in a rotating disk 24.

The channel guide is secured upon a lever 26 mounted to rock and to slide inthe direction of feed upon a stud 28 secured to the feed slide 20. The lever 26 is rocked to move the channel guide towards and from the work by a cam operated arm 30 engaging the lever and is moved in the line of feed by a cam lever 32 provided with a tooth space engaged by a tooth on the hub of the lever 26.

The work is fed through the machine almost entirely by the operation of the feed point which imparts successively a short movement and a longer movement during each cycle of the, ma chine. Before the longer back-feeding move.- ment of the feedv point, the channel guide is also back fed a short distance in order to provide more space about the end of the needle for passageof the looper. est back-feeding movement, after which it en-' gages the work and feeds it forward a short distance, back-feeding a similar distance thereafter,

The feed point is then given its greatwhile the channel guide remains'stationary. The.

feed point and channel guide-then move together to feed the work into the.properpo'sitionito be;

After the final W0l'ki6fid..-- I

engaged by the needle. ing stroke in each stitch, the feed point and'channel guide are located-one on each side of the. needlepath as it emerges: from the work, the feed point engaging the lchannel between the needle and the last formed stitch-to give ample support for the material operated upon.

. The. position :of-theparts upon reaching this point in each cycle of the machine is illustrated in Fig, 3 which shows theneedle about toengage the work. --I n ordinary inseam sewing machines, the needlein passing' through the work may defleet. the material forming the channel flap, indicated sit-34, as the point passes through the upper 36..- This will cause the'channel flap to be. bent forward-andresultm failure to form a secure stitch .or other diificulty. With the-use of a canvas covered inselatheneedle may successfully pass throughthe insole-flap but may cause'the canvastorseparate from the insole along the channeL. In the presentmachine the channel flap, being supported at. both sides of the needle, as indicated inFigl-Qthe needle will pass through all of. the materials operated upon in a rehablemanner. I

-As-so0n;as the needle has reached the end of its penetrating: stroke,the feed point moves awayfrom the workand the channel guide is back fedto. the positionof Fig. 5 topermitthe looper to pass about all sides of theneedle. The needle is. then retracted with the new loop of threadand the feedpoint, having been back-fed, engages the-work between the channel guide and the holeformed by:the.needle, as in Fig. 6. Fig-, ure '1 shows. the work after having been moved in the direction of feed by the feed point a distance shorter thanthe. previous back-feeding movement, after which the feedpoint is retracted from the work and again back-fedv a distance. equal to said previous feeding movement,- thev channel guideshaving remained stationary. Thisposition is illustrated in Fig. 8, from. which position the feed point and channel guide move together in a'direction of feed to the position of Fig. 9. The

' feed point in this last feeding movement moves a greater" distance than in the shorter feeding movement and also-a greater distance than the channel" guide, so that the proper space is provided'between the two instruments to accommodate passage of' the needle. The cycle ofmovements is then repeated as the machine continues in operation. .Th'e feed point'thus. gives the work two feeding .stepsfof. lessthan the length of each stitch 'while theehannel guide moves in the line of feed away from the needle a distance alsoless thanl'thenle'ngth of..a..stitch, furnishing proper support to the work as well as permitting easy manipulation in operating upon pointed shoes.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated, and a particular embodiment of the invention having been specifically described, what is claimed is:

1. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming. and work supporting devices including a curved hook needle, 2. feed point and a channel guide, and mechanism for actuating the feed point to support the work against the penetrating stroke of the needle between the needle and the last formed stitch and. successively to feed the work in each stitch forming:'cycle .through a plurality of feeding movements. 7

2. An inseam'shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming and work supporting devicesincluding a curved hook needle, a looper, a feed point and a channel guide, and mechanism-for actuating the needle to 'penetrateithe work while the-feed pointremains in engagement with the work at one. side ofthe needle and for actuatingthe feed point to impart two separate feeding movements to the work during each stitch forming cycle of the. machine.

. 3. An inseamshoe sewing machine having-gin combination, stitch formingandwork supporting devices including a curved hook needle, a looper, a feed point and a channel guide, and mechanism for-actuating the needleto penetrate thework while the feed point. and the channel-guideremain. in engagement with thework and forac-r tuating the. feed point throughtwo'separate back feeding movements and the channelguide through a single back feeding movement during each stitch forming cycle: of the machine. 4. An inseam shoe sewing machinehav-ing. in combination, stitch forming and work support-:- ing devices including: a. curved hook needle,-a looper, a feectzpointand a. channel-guide, and mechanism.,-foractuating thefeed point and} the channel guide-in the: direction. oft feed. to support the work at. eitherside of the-needle asthe needle penetrates the work and for-actuating the channel guide-away from theneedle before the looper lays the threadyinthe needlebarb;

5. An inseam shoesewing; machine having, in combination; stitch 'forming and work supporting, devices including-a curved hook needle, :a loopen. a feed -'point and a. channel guide, and mechanism-foractuating the feed point and the channel guide in the direction of feed to. support the work at eitherside of the needle as'theneedle penetratesthe work and for actuating the feed point out, .of. engagement with the'work and the channel'guide the line of feed away. from the needle before the leaner lays the thread. in the needle barb.)

- 6. An inseam. shoe sewingmachine having, in combination. stitch forming and work supportingdevices including .a curved hook needle, a feed point and a channel guide and mechanism for actuating the feed point successively while engaging the work through feeding movements of unequal lengths in. each stitch forming. cycle of the machine.

'7. Aninseam shoe sewing machine having, in combinatiomstitch forming and work supporting devicesfincluding a'curved hook needle, a feed point and a channel guideand mechanism'for actuating the feed point successively while engaging the work through feeding movements. of unequal lengths in each stitch forming cycleiof theach ne and-tor aetu tinethe-channel guide in the direction of feed with a single feeding movement during each cycle.

8. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming and work supporting devices including a curved hook needle, a feed point and a channel guide and mechanism for actuating the feed point successively while endirection of feed with a single feeding movement, simultaneously with one of the movements of the feed point while engaging the work.

9. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming and work supportneedle greater than the length of a stitch.

11. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming and work supportactuating the feed point and channel guide against the side of the work opposite the needle at the sides of the needle while the needle pierces the work and for actuating the channel guide in the line of feed a distance from the needle less than the length of a stitch.

12. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming and work supporting devices including a curved hook needle, a looper, a feed point and a channel guide, mechanism for actuating the needle to penetrate the work while the feed point remains in engagement mechanism for actuating the channel guide in the line of feed away from the needle before the looper lays the thread within the needle barb.

ANDREW EPPLER. 

